This note’s audio accompaniment
Recently, while The Row was quietly setting up shop in Amagansett, I was recalling (fondly) how it wasn’t that long ago that their offering wasn’t nearly as vast and there was a greater focus on essentials. With only three of their own stores (Los Angeles, London, and New York), an evolving online site, and small curations at select retailers (Barneys aside), the road travelled — from seeking to securing — was a longer one and masochistically satisfying. You know, the good things that come to those who wait.
Fast forward to today and we have a full span of RTW, bags, shoes, and accessories including jewelry. And yet, you have to be quick to get your hands on anything. There are so many more eyes on The Row and the energy has shifted. Long-time clients were intentional with purchases and gave themselves time to evaluate before they invested. And sure, they’d miss out here and there but they’d been afforded the opportunity to consider whether they could live without it. That luxury has lapsed. Part of the reason is the design teams are creating covetable pieces that wander into trend - edgier items carry that “risk”. We all remember the Gaia sandals that sparked the fisherman sandal frenzy.
Knowingly or unknowingly, Vogue’s “The Row’s Margaux Bag Is a Future Heirloom in the Making” November 2023 article was the death of the IYKYK days and the beginning of mass commercialization of The Row. It was bound to happen eventually and for most brands, it’s a realized dream. They’d relish the spoils that come with rapid ascent — press coverage, accolades, and a big boost to their top line, to name just a few. And while The Row will be sure to capitalize on some of it, there are also inherent conflicts with their values — heightened visibility and less control. The antithesis of The Row’s profile.
It’s no wonder they’ve taken their signature bag off shelves and closed off their runway shows. It’s one of the traits I admire most about them…that at the height of their success, they’re retreating (strategically). The Row is the designers’ personified enigmatic medium of expression emoting on their behalf. It’s introverted, classy, and cautious. It makes sense that in response to the clatter, they’ve recoiled. And we want them to. We want them to hold on to their mystery. It is, I would say, their most valuable intangible asset.
I’m thrilled to see them do well, but I also miss the days of sartorial scarcity where there were wants unfulfilled (at my will) and wins meant more. Today, as I’m still receiving my summer pre-order items, I’m anticipating the release of Spring 2025 and steeling myself for the review that it will necessitate. It constantly feels as though while I’m still wading through one season, another is imminent. I’ve often forgotten what I’ve pre-ordered and when items arrive, I’m already looking two seasons (and budgets) ahead. It’s overwhelming.
And here’s something — I was scrolling through Instagram the other day and had a visceral reaction to something I saw. One that scared me straight. Someone posted a picture of the gold arm bangle from runway and I thought, “Someone else was the first to post “MY” bangle!” And then I thought, “Uh-oh, et tu Neelam?”
That’s one of the toxic traits of the influencer space. It’s a race. The race to be the first to post, to get the most likes, the follows, and the clout. It’s fast fashion that comes with a hefty price tag and I just can’t keep up. Nor do I want to. Like The Row, I’m sorting out my own cognitive dissonance on their global gains.
I want a moment to treasure my treasures. I want the time to choose to miss out on things occasionally because there’s nothing like the sweetness of scarcity and the pleasure of pursuit that ensues. The Row was meant to be taken in slowly, like a fine wine. Not that I know much about wine but I’ve seen people savour it slowly and stroke their glass the way I stroke Salpa. Twisted, maybe. True, most definitely. When you play The Row, you play for the long game.
Thankfully, that bangle begrudging moment (and the sick feeling that came with it) was fleeting. I reverted to a more peaceful state and came back to that slow burn. I’m more comfortable in this place at a measured pace and I’m going to continually remind myself of that. I think there’s far more authenticity when you collect and create when inspired versus as a knee-jerk reaction to your worst impulses. So, when I do acquire another unnecessary item to add to my collection, I will have done so thoughtfully. And when I do share it with my audience, I may be fashionably late.
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Some belated wins when I waited:
I first saw The Row Wilsonia blazer (on sale here) last summer at Bergdorf Goodman and knew it was one to add to the list. I couldn’t bring myself to buy it at full price so I started looking for something similar. There were no other reasonable options so I figured I’d wait for sale. Then, I got even luckier - one popped up on The Real Real in a size 2. It’s generous in the shoulders (so it makes my very broad shoulders even broader) but I’ll wear it with sleeves rolled up and make it a casual affair - I like how Ashley paired it with torn denim. It’s not too heavy and I like that it’s a black pinstripe and not navy. So lucky to have found it.
The Badva trench from Spring 2023 was magnificent in person. It’s a happy colour. However, for that much orangey red, I wasn't willing to part with a lot of green. Added it to my list of wants and found it on sale at a local Toronto retailer (Holt Renfrew).
Ok try to get past the MC Hammer vibes, this was me in Paris trying on the Criselle jeans (on sale here). I found them on sale at Net-A-Porter and took a size 2. I’ll have them hemmed soon and that should solve some of the ballooning.
I have an unhealthy obsession with the Sisilia shirt. It’s an excellent fit and I prefer the silk because of the way it falls. It’s very simple and works well with denim and skirts alike. A great investment, especially on sale. I stalked it and bought it as soon as Net-A-Porter marked it down. I took an xs. Here’s another one on sale.
Some other prizes waiting to be claimed:
The Row Caroline wool shirt The retail price is $1,490. I have it in grey and brown. I’d have taken this but I have a black wool shirt by Auralee.
The Idro shirt in medium. Their baby corduroy is soft and cozy. I have the Eglitta cords in brown and I live in them.
The Row Sibem sweater. I live in mine (I wear xs in it), and I got it a long time ago on TRR. Another one came up here.. I still can’t believe someone gave this up. I’ve reviewed it on YouTube.
Happy slow, mindful shopping (let’s not tell my husband I connected happy and mindful with shopping).
N xo
this felt like a psychoanalysis of the row and it tickeld my brain in a way that i now understands why hockey fans needs to talk about their favourite sport. thank you for that.
Every word - so well said.