The Row Spring 2025 Review
An Olsen Wardrobe Walkthrough
Well, it figures. The one day I’d planned an Instagram absence, The Row drops Spring 2025. Turns out, that was a good thing. I needed the extra time to ruminate.
Music for the mood.
OVERVIEW
When I saw the first few images of Spring 2025, I had the same reaction as I did when Spring 2024 was released. Momentarily nonplussed. It was another DNA deviation for them -- but only from the line – not from themselves. The Row has always been the polished version of their untucked and sometimes grunge street style and they’ve slowly been incorporating more wearable day options that feel familiar to us because we could easily envision the designers in the looks (because we have seen them in the looks).
Spring is fashion’s fresh canvas and there’s no better time to play. Their most recent winter collection was weighty in material and message and in contrast, this collection stands markedly apart. If winter was what we’d aspire to wear, then spring is what we can (and will) wear. It’s lighter in spirit and form and there should be room for this. And yet there are some who won’t be convinced. So then comes the question I’ve asked before: what are we looking for in a collection? Inspiration? Consistency? Functionality? Entertainment?
The answer seems dependent upon what brand we’re speaking about.
As organizations develop, expectations change. Large conglomerates, heavily funded by investors, are focused on profits and their collections are sometimes watered down to render them more marketable to the masses. Even the houses that have remained independent from investment struggle to hold on to their authenticity as they expand. In the same way, I’m much better one-on-one and I lose parts of myself as the gathering around the table grows.
The Row is punching above their weight in an established industry (sans the financial backing) but they’ve held on to their creative control. The owners are still heavily involved in every aspect of their growing business and while some brands are more concerned with pushing product to the masses (and design with that in mind), The Row produces from a place of passion that typically resonates with a smaller, more niche audience. They know it’ll sell because they know why we’re here – we want inside their personal closets. They have impeccably refined taste and there’s no need to prove themselves to devotees who’ve followed along since their Balenciaga bag toting days. We’ll take the closet tour and willingly pay up for it.
REVIEW
This collection is uncharacteristically chock full of checks, layered with lace, and offers less neutral than normal. There’s a clear commitment to casualwear with a deep dive in denim. Coats and pants remain long and loose and Eglittas are still being produced. There are hints of Uma Wang, Beene, and old Céline, a comforting continuity of classics, and some glitter and glam. And then there’s Maud (mad dash, they’ll be gone in a flash). N/S Park gets a weave, there’s a tote To Go, Oregon goes green, and Mira is a dream. Kew is so pretty I want to cry (I ordered the black version from Winter but if I could I’d have that gator). And the best news is we meet Margaux’s sibling — equally as lovely but a little more relaxed and we’ll be wanting her company.
You’ll have your fill of footwear. Mary-Jane’s are traded for square toed T-straps, and flip-flops with contrasting Row red are the next high street dupes to come. There are some elevated soles, a mishmash of mesh boots, ballet pumps, and canvas sneakers.
I’m not sure I’m taken with how the presentation was packaged but I know what to expect upon close inspection - precision in stitch and cut, divine draping, the softest silks, and leather like butter. They’re masters of cloth. However, once you’ve graduated to this level of excellence in execution, the focus shifts to styling and all the little details. Within the looks there are some jewels, but there is the task of having to parse and reassemble in a build-a-bear type exercise. I’m not opposed to it, but I’ve grown accustomed to having them to do the heavy lifting. Styling is where they typically excel and it’s their key differentiating factor in the luxury landscape. No bother, The Row trusts we’ll do the work – and even more so, they trust we can. Their clients don’t just paint in primary; they’re mix masters.
Overall, I quite like the collection. Some of the appeal is that it feels very nostalgic young Neelam. Skirts and dresses over pants - been there, done that, will do it again. I’m currently knee-deep on the pre-order site wading through the full expanded offering (which includes a lot of off-runway) and it’s helpful as it not only closes the gaps but illuminates their path to the final looks. And as often is the case, much of my wish list is comprised of what’s behind that curtain.
Side note - there’s nothing quite like the release of a new offering to curb my spend on the current one. I feel like I’m constantly saving for what’s next (until sale hits and I lose all composure and funds along with it).
DETAIL
They do this so well. Every year, small tweaks and betterments. Leins returns in khaki and Montrose has new unbelted Sable mate. If you missed out on Fleur, you’ll want to look at Sablise – it’s sublime. BTW there’s one curiously lonely Fleur here right now and I have no idea why no one’s scooped it up. Please do so I don’t. I have it in grey and it’s an excellent transition coat.
Yes, reminiscent of old Céline (so many DMs!) and we know the designers appreciated Phoebe, but they’ve sported these looks themselves as well.
Lots of interest in Nesson even though it’s a little noisy because when The Row gets loud, we listen. That checked coat reminds me of a vintage Prada. And Dom (an apron dress with ribbon ties), a reimagined version of an old Marc Jacobs? Perhaps.
So much grace and beauty here and one seriously sequinned gown — Giulietta is a silver stunner with Indian lehenga like embellishments. A work of art.
This set of looks is what we’re actually reaching for in our closets (spend justified). And I need to take a moment to extol the virtues of the Eglitta jeans — single handedly relegating all my other denim to the back seat, this style is absolute perfection in a non-stretch denim. Soft, low, wide, and comfortable. They make everything look good. With heels, tees, silk shirts, or knits, they’ll be in the rotation so often people will think you’ve signed up to some strange challenge. I have multiples in them and am adding more.
…and for anyone wondering who might wear the collection:
AND NEWCOMERS WILL.
I’ll share my pre-order “shortly”. Substack is big commitment - I love it but I always feel like I’m barely keeping up. Thanks for being patient.
N xo
Your writing ranks with the best (fashion) journalism out there. Thank you!
Had been looking forward to your review. You do it very well!