I’ve spent so much time studying past The Row collections that I’ve foolishly begun to think I can anticipate what will come next. I should know better. After a very opulent Winter 2024 collection, I expected something substantial from them for the opposing season and I surmised their recent cash injection (courtesy of Chanel fam and others) was an indication of a latent desire to access the expertise of artisanal masters and open the gates to the kingdom of couture. I don’t think I was entirely wrong, but this presentation certainly wasn’t what I was expecting and had I not been to the showroom, I might have come away thinking it was “less than”.
We’re used to seeing exceptional, pared back pieces in narrow colour palettes, but this surpassed even the most modest of templates. Nary a hue, absent of adornments and accessories, this grouping is clean and stripped down to all the nothingness that resonates with true minimalists. It’s difficult to appreciate the presentation without the contextualization of touch because it’s all deceptively simple and the blurred editorial images presented on Vogue (an attempt to fend off high-street predators?) don’t provide any clarity.
27 outfits in all, you’ll find them suitable for the season as they’re lightweight and mostly casual (store your suits). Key looks were comprised of layered, relaxed nubby tees in the softest brushed cotton, pilled to give them a lived-in feel, paired with relaxed pleated workwear style pants in the thinnest barely-there cashmere/cotton blends. There are cape-like tops, bejewelled necklines, a bevy of dress options, sheer layered maxi-skirts, and a few classic coats. The silhouettes are clean, but the fabrics are complicated. Cotton voile is texturized through treatment rendering them similar to linen, heavy weighted tailored wool normally reserved for outerwear is spent on tops, office grey is contrasted with sharp white lining with edges left unfinished, and there’s a washed shantung silk coat and trouser set that’s so airy I felt I was floating in it.
Bags were noticeably absent with the exception of a few silky leather clutches and at the resee, there was a singular E/W alligator Marlo tote in a rich chocolate sitting pretty on a low bench (I kept her company for a bit). Shoes were classic and in line with the looks: round toe gymnast flats in sumptuous Nappa (bow or no bow, your choice), square toe pony hair flats in beige and black, and a pair of sporty rubber slides (the new jellies).
In a way, Summer 2025 feels like a nostalgic show and tell. The Row was born out of a desire to perfect the basic tee and it seems they’re revisiting their roots and reminding us of what they do best. Maybe it’s my age, but these are the pieces I want to wear on repeat. They’re not fussy, they’re comfortable and classic, and the cut and cloth tell a compelling story.
At this point, it’s obvious to everyone in the industry that The Row cares not what’s going on to the left or right of them; they’re only competing with themselves. From one collection to the next, they keep their blinders on and heads down and focus on mastering their craft.
N xo
Your writing is so good, is makes the clothes look even better
Thank you, Neelam! Your commentary was a calm in the storm of The Row mania :-) A moment to pause and assess......and as always - appreciate your groupings!