I think people who come from exclusionary sensibilities will always frown upon dupes. And a part of me understands from a root cause analysis- but we need dupes. For example: i was for the past 10 years very visibly plus size and was very limited in access to designer pieces in my size- so i went to talented tailors and dressmakers and small batch designers and asked them to make me dresses and hero pieces based on designers i loved. and for shoes- what elevated high street or heritage designer do we know making shoes in a size 45 (US women’s 13?). the designers we love often exclude large segments of the population beyond socio-economic status- intentionally. i’d like to think that the modern concepts of luxury and luxury fashion is stubbornly committed to exclusion. and it’s unfortunate.
this year i purchased 2 bags from Bottega (the way you love the row is the way my heart sings for Bottega and has for the past 20 years). the bags i bought this year are perhaps their most replicated- but for me, my relationship to it was simple- i wanted the craftsmanship, and the thoughtfulness that came with the design, silhouette, materials. i went to a fast fashion store the other day and saw the “dupes” and i can feel the difference completely. does it bother me that i spent thousands and others can buy a dupe for $100? not at all. because i bought my pieces for me. for a lifetime. no one else pays the bill but me. Exclusive- feels luxurious. But Exclusion? Not to me.
but i do agree that for the girlies with a healthy appetite for fashion and trends are encouraged to overconsume with the availability of dupes and love that you unpacked that with “just because it’s created doesn’t mean we need to own it/have it” ❤️
Hi Aria, thanks for sharing your experience. It’s so disappointing that size exclusion is still an issue and I wholeheartedly support having bespoke pieces made when designers refuse to offer the full range. And I agree - buying for me yes, buying to make someone else feel less, never. And I love Bottega too!! 🤍
Thank you so much for this, and for all your content. I’m a big fan.
Something I think about are dupes in the other direction. Dupes of Stan Smith Adidas that cost 10 times more than the leather original? Or Clark’s desert boots? Canvas carpenter tool bags? Levi’s jeans? Penny loafers? Capezio slippers, character shoes, and ballet bags? Men’s work wear? I haven’t decided for myself, but I do ponder the topic.
Thank you for writing about this in such a nuanced way and making space for the myriad of reasons people chase dupes! I think there's a tendency to fixate on the most superficial and extreme examples, but there are also legit reasons why people buy from brands that knock off other brands (sizing, money) and it's not helpful to get on a high horse.
I really find a lot of your writing very reflective and insightful—I find that a lot of fashion influencers and bloggers aren't as deeply reflective of how it impacts social norms and "signaling". Highly recommend reading the Elephant in the Brain by Robin Hanson when you get a chance. He basically argues that many of our actions often serve to improve our status, gain approval, or signal our virtues to others. I feel this way about fashion and it often conflicts with my value for wanting to feel like I am approachable and make everyone feel accepted.
Thanks Rinad, I appreciate the feedback and no, I haven’t heard of that book. I should have added “more reading” at the end of the letter. I’ll add this title to my list of books to read. :)
I had to say that your Substack floored me. In a good way!
It was so thoughtful, so well written, the care in which you wrote and thought about the topic really came through.
I hate dupes. But you made me think more about “why” I do. Why, when I walk by Steve Madden, do I get visibly annoyed/angry when I see a blatant stitch for stitch dupe of my Hermes Chypre sandals?
Truly a great piece and I thank you for taking the time to write it!
Loved reading this. As I’ve got older I’ve gravitated towards buying far far less but the best quality that I can afford. That said, I have more disposable income to do this than when I was younger and totally understand younger people and/or those with less or no disposable income still wanting to look and feel current.
Yes when we’re younger we want more but don’t always have the necessary budget and as we age, we scale back but can often (if we’re lucky) afford more.
Wow- this is really a powerful piece and it spoke to me deeply as someone who has always loved fashion and style but didn't always have access the way I now do. And because of that and the way it shaped me, I believe in the democratization of fashion, and the idea that everyone who wants to participate deserves to feel that sense of belonging; deserves to feel good. I love the guidelines you have in place for yourself when considering alternatives, and we would all be wise to adopt them. Mostly, though, I just love the thoughtfulness with which you approached the topic. It is, as you said, a complicated, layered subject, and you have tackled here in such a smart, three-dimensional way, with honesty great nuance. A wonderful read...
So thought provoking. Really appreciate the time you put into this sorting through the nuances and encouraging personal introspection that goes deeper into the “why am I ok with this or not ?” It’s really making me think more about my own relationship with what I buy and why, and I think it’s important to revisit that regularly. 🫶
Thank you Amber. No easy answers. Purchases are so emotional and I just want to continue to explore. Appreciate you taking the time to read it! I’m sure it’s a TLDR situation for some!
Nearly a month since you posted this but just wanted to say I’ve been thinking about it off and on ever since 💗 so much of the conversation around “taste” and what constitutes “good” personal style is about in-group/out-group dynamics but you put a really heartfelt & genuine touch on it. And I also know so much of what I am actively trying to project in my outfits is often based on what I felt I lacked/failed at as a child! My favorite style substacks keep coming back to the point that yes, this is all “just clothes” and “it’s for fun” etc (which is so true!) but also it’s about so much more (both on an individual and societal level!) when we take the time to examine it a bit more. this post really got me thinking & feeling 💗💗 ty for sharing something so personal with us, truly appreciate it
I feel like a line can be drawn between inspiration and counterfeit. Counterfeit is theft. One does not get to steal another’s identity and a fake Chanel with a fake Chanel label is exactly that. Dupes ride that line for sure yet I see a grey area. Is Chanel the only one allowed to sell quilted bags? Sure…no. But the minute you copy that logo you’re over the line.
Neelam, I wanted to make sure I told you how gorgeous this latest substack was. The story about the Esprit top....well, we are definitely of the same fashion generation! I was always the "poor kid" in my school, and the only one without an Esprit sweatshirt or bookbag, and I think it's a huge part of why I love fashion now. I can finally participate, and be part of the thing I felt excluded from as a kid. And, as you say, being "a collector" of anything lets you feel you belong to that community, in a way that's hard to find as an adult. Anyway, you drew some fascinating connections I hadn't considered, and did it with style, grace, and beautiful writing, all while feeling ill. I'm grateful to you for sharing!
Hi Becki, thank you so much for your kind words and for taking the time to read it. Just being aware and questioning our choices is a good first step. 🤍
Thank you for writing such an insightful piece. I agree with all you've touched upon. As an independent designer, I have suffered a lot from knock offs of my designs. I can see that you recognize the difference between dupes of a designer bag and an idea stolen from a small designer. When a large, wealthy company directly copies a small, independent brand like mine (Marie Turnor) the effect can be to topple the small brand that is unable to compete monetarily and consequently, to limit our choices overall. That said, I am not angry because I love fashion as an art form and an expression of one's self and you need confidence and a strong shell to stay in it.
Great piece, definitely took me back to my days of Esprit and Benetton! Like most things in life the topic of dupes is not black and white and much of how we think and feel about them lies somewhere in between depending on our circumstances. You did an excellent job validating both sides and really left the reader with a lot to think about.
Thanks Caroline, feels like it was a lifetime ago. I obsessed over Benetton and Esprit (Swatch watches too, remember those?!). I’m trying to hold myself more accountable. Xo
I think people who come from exclusionary sensibilities will always frown upon dupes. And a part of me understands from a root cause analysis- but we need dupes. For example: i was for the past 10 years very visibly plus size and was very limited in access to designer pieces in my size- so i went to talented tailors and dressmakers and small batch designers and asked them to make me dresses and hero pieces based on designers i loved. and for shoes- what elevated high street or heritage designer do we know making shoes in a size 45 (US women’s 13?). the designers we love often exclude large segments of the population beyond socio-economic status- intentionally. i’d like to think that the modern concepts of luxury and luxury fashion is stubbornly committed to exclusion. and it’s unfortunate.
this year i purchased 2 bags from Bottega (the way you love the row is the way my heart sings for Bottega and has for the past 20 years). the bags i bought this year are perhaps their most replicated- but for me, my relationship to it was simple- i wanted the craftsmanship, and the thoughtfulness that came with the design, silhouette, materials. i went to a fast fashion store the other day and saw the “dupes” and i can feel the difference completely. does it bother me that i spent thousands and others can buy a dupe for $100? not at all. because i bought my pieces for me. for a lifetime. no one else pays the bill but me. Exclusive- feels luxurious. But Exclusion? Not to me.
but i do agree that for the girlies with a healthy appetite for fashion and trends are encouraged to overconsume with the availability of dupes and love that you unpacked that with “just because it’s created doesn’t mean we need to own it/have it” ❤️
Hi Aria, thanks for sharing your experience. It’s so disappointing that size exclusion is still an issue and I wholeheartedly support having bespoke pieces made when designers refuse to offer the full range. And I agree - buying for me yes, buying to make someone else feel less, never. And I love Bottega too!! 🤍
Thank you so much for this, and for all your content. I’m a big fan.
Something I think about are dupes in the other direction. Dupes of Stan Smith Adidas that cost 10 times more than the leather original? Or Clark’s desert boots? Canvas carpenter tool bags? Levi’s jeans? Penny loafers? Capezio slippers, character shoes, and ballet bags? Men’s work wear? I haven’t decided for myself, but I do ponder the topic.
It’s so layered, lots to peel back.
Thank you for writing about this in such a nuanced way and making space for the myriad of reasons people chase dupes! I think there's a tendency to fixate on the most superficial and extreme examples, but there are also legit reasons why people buy from brands that knock off other brands (sizing, money) and it's not helpful to get on a high horse.
Thank you for reading along. And yes, so true, we have to continually check ourselves. Requires some presence and humility. 🙏🏽
I really find a lot of your writing very reflective and insightful—I find that a lot of fashion influencers and bloggers aren't as deeply reflective of how it impacts social norms and "signaling". Highly recommend reading the Elephant in the Brain by Robin Hanson when you get a chance. He basically argues that many of our actions often serve to improve our status, gain approval, or signal our virtues to others. I feel this way about fashion and it often conflicts with my value for wanting to feel like I am approachable and make everyone feel accepted.
Thanks Rinad, I appreciate the feedback and no, I haven’t heard of that book. I should have added “more reading” at the end of the letter. I’ll add this title to my list of books to read. :)
I had to say that your Substack floored me. In a good way!
It was so thoughtful, so well written, the care in which you wrote and thought about the topic really came through.
I hate dupes. But you made me think more about “why” I do. Why, when I walk by Steve Madden, do I get visibly annoyed/angry when I see a blatant stitch for stitch dupe of my Hermes Chypre sandals?
Truly a great piece and I thank you for taking the time to write it!
I’m so glad you enjoyed it and thank you reading. Important for all of us to keep asking ourselves these questions.
Very well said, Neelam. There’s definitely a lot of gray area to this topic and everyone’s line falls somewhere different.
Yes so all we can do is keep an open mind and keep trying. Thank you for reading.🙏🏽
Loved reading this. As I’ve got older I’ve gravitated towards buying far far less but the best quality that I can afford. That said, I have more disposable income to do this than when I was younger and totally understand younger people and/or those with less or no disposable income still wanting to look and feel current.
Yes when we’re younger we want more but don’t always have the necessary budget and as we age, we scale back but can often (if we’re lucky) afford more.
Wow- this is really a powerful piece and it spoke to me deeply as someone who has always loved fashion and style but didn't always have access the way I now do. And because of that and the way it shaped me, I believe in the democratization of fashion, and the idea that everyone who wants to participate deserves to feel that sense of belonging; deserves to feel good. I love the guidelines you have in place for yourself when considering alternatives, and we would all be wise to adopt them. Mostly, though, I just love the thoughtfulness with which you approached the topic. It is, as you said, a complicated, layered subject, and you have tackled here in such a smart, three-dimensional way, with honesty great nuance. A wonderful read...
I appreciate you taking the time to read it and thank you for these kind words. Less judging and more understanding is key I think. 🤍
I loved reading this Neelam, thank you for writing it!
Thank you very much Harriet 🤍
So thought provoking. Really appreciate the time you put into this sorting through the nuances and encouraging personal introspection that goes deeper into the “why am I ok with this or not ?” It’s really making me think more about my own relationship with what I buy and why, and I think it’s important to revisit that regularly. 🫶
Thank you Amber. No easy answers. Purchases are so emotional and I just want to continue to explore. Appreciate you taking the time to read it! I’m sure it’s a TLDR situation for some!
Nearly a month since you posted this but just wanted to say I’ve been thinking about it off and on ever since 💗 so much of the conversation around “taste” and what constitutes “good” personal style is about in-group/out-group dynamics but you put a really heartfelt & genuine touch on it. And I also know so much of what I am actively trying to project in my outfits is often based on what I felt I lacked/failed at as a child! My favorite style substacks keep coming back to the point that yes, this is all “just clothes” and “it’s for fun” etc (which is so true!) but also it’s about so much more (both on an individual and societal level!) when we take the time to examine it a bit more. this post really got me thinking & feeling 💗💗 ty for sharing something so personal with us, truly appreciate it
You’re very welcome and I’m so happy to hear from you, even a month later.🥰
I feel like a line can be drawn between inspiration and counterfeit. Counterfeit is theft. One does not get to steal another’s identity and a fake Chanel with a fake Chanel label is exactly that. Dupes ride that line for sure yet I see a grey area. Is Chanel the only one allowed to sell quilted bags? Sure…no. But the minute you copy that logo you’re over the line.
Yes I mentioned this in the post ;)
Neelam, I wanted to make sure I told you how gorgeous this latest substack was. The story about the Esprit top....well, we are definitely of the same fashion generation! I was always the "poor kid" in my school, and the only one without an Esprit sweatshirt or bookbag, and I think it's a huge part of why I love fashion now. I can finally participate, and be part of the thing I felt excluded from as a kid. And, as you say, being "a collector" of anything lets you feel you belong to that community, in a way that's hard to find as an adult. Anyway, you drew some fascinating connections I hadn't considered, and did it with style, grace, and beautiful writing, all while feeling ill. I'm grateful to you for sharing!
Hi Becki, thank you so much for your kind words and for taking the time to read it. Just being aware and questioning our choices is a good first step. 🤍
Very well written and thoughtful. Thankyou for starting a conversion and for being so honest and open. It even got me to sign up to Substack ;)
Oh I love this! Thank you for joining us. 🙏🏽
Thank you for writing such an insightful piece. I agree with all you've touched upon. As an independent designer, I have suffered a lot from knock offs of my designs. I can see that you recognize the difference between dupes of a designer bag and an idea stolen from a small designer. When a large, wealthy company directly copies a small, independent brand like mine (Marie Turnor) the effect can be to topple the small brand that is unable to compete monetarily and consequently, to limit our choices overall. That said, I am not angry because I love fashion as an art form and an expression of one's self and you need confidence and a strong shell to stay in it.
I hear you Beth and really love your work.🤍
Great piece, definitely took me back to my days of Esprit and Benetton! Like most things in life the topic of dupes is not black and white and much of how we think and feel about them lies somewhere in between depending on our circumstances. You did an excellent job validating both sides and really left the reader with a lot to think about.
Thanks Caroline, feels like it was a lifetime ago. I obsessed over Benetton and Esprit (Swatch watches too, remember those?!). I’m trying to hold myself more accountable. Xo