The Olsenification of an outfit, Part 1
The basics
“I bought that shirt, but it doesn’t look the same on me.”
“I’m tall so coats are never long enough.”
“I have a full chest; I could never wear a shirt unbuttoned at the top.”
These are just a few of the comments I’ve received over the years, but it often boils down to sizing and styling. While most of it has been relatively intuitive for me, I’ve learned a bit along the way, and in this note, I’ll share some of the tricks I employ regularly. I’m hoping these strategies reduce your return rate and get you closer to the coveted street-style The Row designers are known for. In a previous post, I highlighted the significance of a long coat in a Row look, but I’d be remiss if I didn’t say that while it’s one thing to know what to wear, it’s quite another to know how to wear it. Before we delve deeper, I recommend reading the post below, as understanding your frame is the starting point.
1. Tame the gals
It might surprise you that I have a full chest; I’m just skilled at concealing it when necessary. There was a time when I was grateful for my bust to waist ratio, but my breastfeeding days are long behind me, and gravity hasn’t been kind, so I require additional assistance. Unfortunately, the "less is more" philosophy also applies here; clothes tend to fall better on those less endowed. The solution - two bras. One for support and another for compression. If you don't need support, opt for the compression bra.
Consider adding a thin bralette with lower necklines to conceal cleavage.
2. Leave blazers/shirts undone
Certain occasions call for a full button-up, but I prefer my shirts left slightly unbuttoned (and sometimes completely open) and having addressed cleavage above, this should work for almost everyone.
3. Coats should kiss the floor
As I mentioned, I covered this subject in detail here. Long before the Olsens emerged with their compelling case for petite chic, I was relentlessly chastised for my height, and contrary to what many believe, I think there are plenty of advantages to being shorter (this deserves a separate post). One of the benefits is that longer styles appear even longer on me; they often graze the ground, which is the very essence of The Row. However, if you’re taller, don’t fret—size up! I think a lot of people get hung up on this point; they want the exact right size, but I maintain that if a coat is cut correctly and the style is relaxed, you should be able to size up without compromising fit and still gain some length (and the same rule applies to skirts). If you do go up from your usual size and the waist is too big, the sleeves are too long, or the shoulders are too broad, don’t hesitate to make adjustments. You just need to find a skilled tailor. You could also trying swapping your heels for flats. Heels make you look taller and naturally, the coat shorter. Lose the heels and the coat looks longer.
If you’re on the taller side and even the largest size falls short, remember that you can still look stunning, just like a runway model whose coat grazes her calves—and there’s nothing wrong with that.
4. Pants need a break
Pants should be long enough that you're almost tripping over them and at the very least, they should have one break in the front. However, before you take your denim to the tailor, it's essential to consider shrinkage. Whether you air dry or dry clean your jeans, they’ll lose some length in the process, and while the loss is usually minimal, it’s enough to change the look. You might wonder, "Doesn't having the hem touch the ground bother you?" It does bother me a little, but I prefer to err on the longer side and reassess later. So far, I've only needed to adjust once, and that was with a pair of white jeans that had almost turned black at the bottom.
5. Take the time to find a skilled tailor.
If you don’t make the necessary adjustments, you won’t reach for the item. Almost anything can be altered, so don’t let sizing deter you from a purchase. I often have the shoulders of coats adjusted; a minor tweak is usually all it takes for me to feel my best while still maintaining the intended style. However, be cautious about altering the back of oversized styles. Making excessive changes can restrict shoulder mobility, which can make activities like driving or bending down to tie your shoes awkward. It may cause the top half of the garment to lift unnaturally. I once lost a Row coat due to a poorly executed back alteration and had to sell it to someone with narrower shoulders.
To find a good tailor, consider visiting a high-end designer boutique, such as Prada, Gucci, Hermes, or The Row, and asking where they send their items for alterations. That’s how I found mine.
6. Roll your sleeves
And not just when you’re doing the dishes. This trick was a game-changer for me. It’s a simple technique, but it transforms the look from clean to cool, and if you get accustomed to it, you’ll never bother to adjust sleeve lengths again.
7. Untuck/half-tuck/leave open
Unless you’re headed into the office and need to look professional, relax and untuck your shirt.
Simply put, what do we instinctively do at the end of a long day when our collar feels tight, our waist feels restricted, and our sleeves are a bother? We loosen up… so why not just start the day that way? It looks edgier and saves me from having to do it later.
There's more to add, like layered jewelry, scarves, and sunglasses, but I'll save that for next time.
N xo
Great article, especially appreciate the lift and compression. This is always a challenge for me to find a bra that provides the right lift and compression while being comfortable. I'm definitely going to give the compression bra recommendation a try. Thank you as always!
I’m 5 foot 7 and although I wish I were taller sometimes, when it comes to clothes purchased off the rack, I never need to hem anything. And for that I am grateful. Another thing, I am plus-sized (size 18-20) and have lost 35 lbs in the past few months. And at first I held off buying clothes because I figured I’d be going down in size. But the truth is I love the way my clothes fit now. More comfortable of course, but also slouchier and cooler. Larger women are always told to avoid oversized clothes but I hate when shoulders look too narrow etc. Or fabric pulls, etc. Just doesn’t look or feel comfortable. So although I look forward to wearing smaller sizes so I have more options, I’ve gotten over being judged by the size I wear.